A visit to an onsen (hot spring) usually means a trip to a far-flung hot spring resort, but it doesn’t need to be that way. Unbeknownst to many, including more than a few native Tokyoites, the city is home to dozens of onsen, many of them nice enough to make a trip to country unnecessary. Unlike the sento (neighborhood public baths) and super sento (large bathhouses) that once abounded in Tokyo, onsen feature natural hot spring water: it turns out that the ground beneath the capital is rich in geothermal water. So how do you tell the difference between a regular sento and a genuine onsen? Somewhere in the name or description of a real hot spring will be the words onsen or tennen onsen (natural hot spring), while sento are not allowed to use those terms.

A number of old-style onsen have been operating quietly for ages, most of them sourcing their water from between 60 and 300 meters below ground. But in the past decade new onsens have been popping up all over town, thanks to major drilling projects that uncovered new onsen sources deep underground. These underground springs are found between 1300 and 2000 meters below ground and date back thousands—in some cases millions—of years. It isn't known just how much hot spring water there is underneath us or how long it will last (Tokyo sets no limits on drilling and hasn't studied the sustainability or safety of unchecked drilling) but for the time being Tokyo positively abounds in onsen.

Tokyo onsen are much the same as regular onsen, with change rooms and bathing areas segregated by gender and the usual onsen etiquette required (here is a handy guide). One difference to watch out for: most onsen in the city enforce the usual no tattoo rule far more strictly than countryside onsen (where tattooed tourists of the non-mobster variety are often tolerated). Except for the cheapest places, onsen provide amenities like a small hand towel (which must be returned), soap, and shampoo.

Some terms used at onsen include yu or oyu (literally hot water, can also mean bath or onsen), rotemburo (open-air bath), ashi no yu (foot bath, usually outdoor and enjoyed fully clothed), gamban-yoku (hot stone spa), akasuri (a vigorous Korean-style body rub), and yukata (cotton robe). Note that entry fees vary depending on the time and day: prices given here are the adult weekday rate. Discounts are usually offered for children and seniors and during certain off-peak times; expect surcharges on weekends and overnight.

Super Onsen

These large places are similar to super sento (large bathhouses) and offer enough relaxation and entertainment to keep customers staying all day. They feature several different baths and saunas, sometimes with a pool or large bath open to both sexes (bathing suits required). They also have restaurants, a range of massage and aesthetic services, and relaxation lounges full of comfy reclining chairs where customers happily nap for hours. The price of admission includes use of a large bath towel in addition to the hand towel, as well as a yukata or comfortable pajama-like ensemble to wear in the common areas.

Oedo Onsen Monogatari, Odaiba
2900 yen (includes yukata), free shuttle bus available

The biggest onsen in Tokyo calls itself an “Onsen Theme Park” and offers a mind-boggling array of entertainment. Choosing a yukata from a variety of designs, you can spend hours in the common area without even taking a bath: the coed area features shops, old-fashioned carnival games, fortune tellers, an acupuncturist, relaxation lounges, no less than fifteen restaurants and a large outdoor ashi no yu. When you’re ready to bathe, the options are no less impressive, with several indoor baths, rotemburo, and saunas. Not included in the price of admission are a number of services including gamban-yoku, sandbaths, massages, and aesthetic treatments, and akasuri. Oedo Onsen Monogatari is also home to Tokyo’s only “doctor fish” bath: a footbath full of tiny fish that will happily nibble away at the dead flesh on your heels, giving you a smooth—and ticklish—exfoliation.

Niwa no Yu, Toshimaen
2250 yen (includes loungewear)

The classiest of Tokyo’s super onsen, Niwa no Yu is located far off the beaten path, next to theToshimaen amusement park in Nerima Ward. But its quiet, classy atmosphere and pretty surroundings—no kids are allowed; the outdoor bathing area is set in a Japanese garden—belies its proximity to its noisy neighbor. There are a number of segregated indoor and outdoor baths and saunas, including a bath lined in silky smooth Tiger’s Eye quartz and a luxuriously tiled Turkish steam room. The onsen’s large co-ed area (if you didn’t bring a bathing suit you’ll need to rent one) makes Niwa no Yu ideal for couples. In addition to the regular indoor pool, there is a Dead Sea pool, outdoor jet baths and a Finnish sauna.

Laqua, Tokyo Dome
2565 yen (includes loungewear)

With five floors of baths, saunas, relaxation lounges, and restaurants, LaQua has plenty to offer, but is most appreciated by two demographics: late-night revelers (or those who simply missed the last train), and women. The central location and all-night hours—the place stays open until 9:00am—attract partiers looking for a place to relax until the trains start again (an 1890 yen surcharge applies after 1:00am). Perks for the fairer sex include two relaxation rooms for ladies only, a large powder room well-stocked with toiletries, and a free “testing corner” where customers can try out a range of cosmetics (with the purchase of a 100 yen brush kit).

Jindaiji Onsen Yukari, Jindaiji
1650 yen (includes loungewear), free shuttle bus available

Yukari is a bit far out from central Tokyo, but its location in Jindaiji (a lovely area, home to a large botanical garden and old temple surrounded by old soba shops) makes it a great part of a day trip. It’s also worth a visit for feng shui enthusiasts, as the building and the baths themselves were designed and built to conform to geomagnetic principles. Each gender gets seven baths, each with a different theme (don’t miss the crystal bath or the beautiful rotemburo). Gamban-yoku, akasuri and a range of other services can be had, but the lounge rooms are a bit basic—guests lounge on tatami-lined floors rather than reclining chairs.

Seta Onsen Sanga no Yu, FutakoTamagawa
2300 yen (includes loungewear), free shuttle bus available

Several baths and the usual services, but the large outdoor bathing area sets Sanga no Yu apart. Of particular interest are the large coed rotemburo and pool (bathing suits available for rent).

Heiwajima Onsen Kurhaus, Omori
1900 yen (not including loungewear or large bath towel), free shuttle bus available

Another all night onsen (staying open until 8:00am), Kurhaus features a small but fully equipped gym.

Kodai no Yu, Shinkoiwa
2565 yen (includes towels and loungewear), free shuttle bus available

The usual range of baths and services, plus a billiards room and two private family baths available for rent.

Spa Gardish, Yokohama Centre-kita
1200 yen (includes loungewear)

A super onsen as nice as places that are double its price, but that’s not surprising given the out of the way location. Massage, reflexology, akasuri and gamban-yoku are available, as is a private “family bath” (3150 yen for 1 hour).

Takao no Yu Furoppi
1800 yen (includes towels and loungewear), free shuttle bus available

A number of baths are on offer but Furoppi really concentrates on the services and entertainment, including live music, karaoke, mah jong, hair salon, bingo, a game arcade and more. The onsen’s proximity to Mount Takao also makes it popular with hikers hoping to soothe their tired legs.

Bargain Onsen

No frills baths and with few or no amenities, these onsen offer unbeatable value. Often, paying a small surcharge for use of the sauna will get you a hand towel and other amenities.

Utsukushi no Yu, Takaido
800 yen (towel not included)

Several indoor and outdoor baths, two saunas, a large jet bath and a 25 meter onsen pool make this one of the best deals in town.

Soshigaya Onsen 21, Soshigaya Okura
450 yen (towel and sauna not included)

No frills onsen that seems more like a sento, but you can’t beat the price.

Miyagiyu, Oimachi
400 yen (sauna or amenities like towel, soap and shampoo not included)

Basic indoor baths and a single segregated rotemburo (it alternates between men’s and women’s use every two days).

Take no Yu, Azabu Juban
450 yen (sauna or amenities like towel, soap and shampoo not included)

Extremely basic, Take no Yu is hard to distinguish from an old-fashioned sento until you take a dip in the onsen, with its startlingly black mineral-rich water.

Yuya Wagokoro, Nishi Eifuku
450 yen (sauna or amenities like towel, soap and shampoo not included)

A very nice onsen for the price, but its location (halfway between Nishi Eifuku and Minami Asagaya Stations) keep it a local secret.

Togoshi Ginza Onsen, Togoshi
430 yen (amenities like towel, soap and shampoo not included)

Two separate zones with a simple but nice bath and rotemburo, which alternate daily between men’s and women’s use.

Otomeyu, Funabori
450 yen (sauna or amenities like towel, soap and shampoo not included)

Basic but with a good number of baths, including a rotemburo.

Tsuru no Yu, Funabori
430 yen (amenities like towel, soap and shampoo not included)

Another Funabori onsen, Tsuru no Yu has been in business since the Edo era (the building and baths are newly constructed). The basic baths feature kuroyu, water so dark it appears black.

Other Onsen

These places may not be super and they don’t come at a bargain price, but if you’re in the area they’re worth a visit.

Sakura, Sugamo
1260 yen (not including towels and loungewear)

A classy onsen with beautiful baths and a number of services, like akasuri, gamban-yoku, and a kid’s room.

Prince Park Tower, Shiba Koen
2000 yen

The only hotel in Tokyo with an onsen, but it’s a little pricey considering there is just one bath (hotel guests do get a discount).

Roten Garden, Sagamihara
1000 yen (towel and loungewear not included), free shuttle bus available

A number of different baths and saunas are divided into two sections, which switch back and forth between genders each day. This allows men and women to experience every bath (with repeated visits), a nice change from old-style onsen, which often reserve bigger and better baths for men.

Seoto no Yu, Musashi Itsukaichi
800 yen (towel not included)

A beautifully designed building set in the mountains of Itsukaichi, an area in western Tokyo popular for camping and hiking, Seoto no Yu is worth a visit for the surroundings alone.

Moegi no Yu, Okutama
750 yen (towel not included)

An onsen in the Okutama area of western Tokyo, set amidst pretty greenery. Moegi no Yu features an especially beautiful rotemburo and a covered ashi no yu.

Tsurutsuru Onsen, Hinode
800 yen (towel not included)

Located near Mount Mitake and Mount Hinode, this is an ideal place for an après hike soak. The baths are separated into Japanese and western zones, which alternate daily between men’s and women’s use.

This is by no means a complete list of Tokyo’s onsen, and if you find a place you like that’s not mentioned here please write a review here on SunnyPages and let everyone know about your find. Please note that a number of popular onsen not included here, like Zaboo, Azabu Juban Onsen, Koshi no Yu, and Shiespa, are no longer in business.