I though Takao san would be a really nice change of pace from the very urban Tokyo. I had a lovely time but I never felt like I left the city. The hiking trails were quite small and it was extremely touristy. There was food and knickknacks to be purchased at seeemingly every corner. Furthermore, many of the attractions, such as the Monkey Park, had a viewing or entrance fee, although the actual hiking trail was free. Takao san is good for a light day of hiking, but if you don't want to feel like a tourist I would try another mountain.
For a relaxing day with friends, family or just by yourself I highly recommend Mount Takao. You can hike up the mountain (or take a train) to a temple which has restaurants and souvenir shops nearby! Also, you can enjoy a meal prepared by the priests there which is all vegetarian (so if you’re vegetarian that’s a plus!). The only downside to this meal is that it does not taste good. This is only my opinion, however, and some friends that I went with did like it.
On mount Takao there is also a monkey park ~ this part is a little bit disheartening… It’s fun to see the monkeys doing tricks, but the habitat is rather small and not very well kept. The monkeys seem happy enough, but it’s only worth spending the 500-ish yen if you have kids or… just really really want to see monkeys.
If you go to mount Takao I also highly recommend getting ice cream while you’re up the mountain! They have a few places where you can get it and they have really good/Japanese flavors like taro root, black sesame and ginger!
I visited Mount Takao just in time for the beautiful autumn leaves. The ride from central Tokyo was easy and everything was very straightforward. I rode up the mountain on a ski-lift type thing (no handle bar to keep you from falling out) and it was very enjoyable. The views from the lift were amazing, of the surrounding mountain trees and the greater view of the city buildings of Tokyo. It was inexpensive and definitely worth it. I was totally ready to take it down on the way back. The ski-lift takes you up most of the mountain, but then there is a little bit of easy climbing, including a stop at the Buddhist temple, Takaosan Yakuōin Yūkiji.
There were many types of seasonal treats offered at all the stopping points, including many flavors of ice cream such as "flower" or "sesame seed."
The top of the mountain was slightly disappointing as it was filled with consumerism. So if you forgot to pack a lunch, no worries as you have quite a selection to choose from. I had my own lunch so I peacefully ate in some shade after waiting a bit since it was so crowded with so many people. It was chilly at the top of the mountain, so I must admit I happily used the hot chocolate machine which made an actual cup of hot chocolate and then came right out, without even a lid! Truly amazing.
From the top, it was possible to see Mount Fuji and I was able to just barely see the outline of it when wearing some sunglasses as the sun was so bright. The view besides Mount Fuji is of course amazing as you can see all the great buildings of Tokyo.
The walk down was a bit long for me, and also very muddy. So don't wear your favorite shoes if you plan to walk up or down it. Of course it was beautiful to walk along mountain streams through the thick forest. There were many little stopping points where you could light incense to make a wish. I was exhausted by the end but it was really fun and beautiful.